As the largest authentic Italian restaurant and retailer in the UK, Carluccios seems to have escaped being affected by the challenging economic climate, writes Rebecca Barnes. And if you've ever been to the riverside caffe in Kingston, you'll almost certainly have had to queue for a table, especially at lunchtime.

Not any more though, as this particular caffe has had a smart new makeover, and they've even managed to add 20 extra covers, while somehow increasing the feeling of light and space. The Carluccios concept is simple – no-nonsense, freshly prepared food, a larder of Italian specialities and friendly, informal service that's ideal for couples, groups and families with kids in tow.

Visiting for dinner one Friday evening, it was immediately apparent that the restaurants' new look was working for staff and diners alike: although it was nearly full, you didn't feel as though you were elbow to elbow with the next table.

We sat down at our candlelit table and tucked into Italian bread and olives, accompanied by a welcome bottle of Pinot Grigio rose. I am always attracted to prawns, and neither of us could resist one of the 'special' starters – big fat king prawns cooked in garlic, olive oil and chilli and served with rocket salad and a hunk of focaccia bread. Delicious.

At Carluccios they don't like you to leave hungry; my linguine with squid rings, mussels and prawns with garlic, herbs and chilli, was immensely satisfying. My partner's 10oz rib steak, chargrilled and served with rosemary potatoes and red pepper sauce was similarly hearty and flavoursome.

I am not quite sure how we did it, but the dessert menu beckoned, and we fell under the spell of the heavenly tiramisu and two scoops of vanilla and bitter chocolate ice cream. Bellissimo!

The new set Menu Della Casa is fantastic value, at £9.95 for two courses, and £12.95 for three.

Carluccio's, Charter Quay, Kingston-Upon-Thames KT1 1HT. Tel: 020 8549 5898